Zimmermann Is Already Planning Our Next Summer

There was a pale blue-grey skirt at Zimmermann that deserves its own set of plans. Full, slightly sheer and scattered with butterflies, it came with a halter top almost entirely covered in little sculptural wings. The model wore it with bow-trimmed flats. We would happily build an evening around that outfit, even if the evening was originally supposed to be quite casual.

For Spring/Summer 2027, Nicky Zimmermann called her collection Kaleidoscope. Presented in Paris on 5 October, the show took butterflies as its starting point, with the designer looking to their resilience and constant transformation. On the clothes, the idea became wonderfully physical. Wings stood away from the body, clustered around necklines and appeared between layers of fabric. You wanted a closer look.

One sheer mauve dress was particularly good: long sleeves, a deep neckline and ruffles falling unevenly around the legs, with flowers and butterflies scattered across it. There was a lot going on, and that was part of the appeal. Reducing it to “a pretty dress” would miss the slightly unruly quality that made it interesting.

The pale yellow separates had a similar ease, with lace cutting across the glossy fabric. A blush-pink outfit took things further: tiny shorts under a wide, cape-like top, with long panels hanging down behind. A fairly dramatic amount of fabric for an outfit that still showed that much leg. We liked the proportions.

That was where the show became especially appealing. There were clothes to spend ages looking at, then combinations you immediately wanted to try yourself. The flat shoes helped. So did the generous bags and the way the trousers sat loosely around the body. Even with all the embellishment, you could imagine making these pieces your own.

Looking back through our photographs, it is the butterfly skirt we keep returning to. The blue outfit would probably get more wear. We are choosing to see no reason why these have to compete.

Clothes for women, by a woman who clearly enjoys getting dressed. Nicky Zimmermann makes room for a little extravagance in everyday life. Looking at this collection, we’re tempted to do the same. Nicky Zimmermann has a good eye for the things you only notice up close. For Kaleidoscope, she was drawn to the butterfly’s resilience and its ability to transform. That fascination became wonderfully tangible in the clothes: little wings standing away from a neckline, or scattered across a full skirt. The kind of detail that makes you zoom in on your own photographs.

@zimmerman

Glow After | Fashion · Paris
By Maria Priymachenko